Roofing Companies Closest to Me 

Tap any button to find local roofers on the map. The first button finds all nearby roofing companies — the others help you narrow down your specific need.

Roofing costs, timelines, and contractor rules confuse most homeowners — partly because quotes vary dramatically, and partly because contractors don’t always explain the full picture upfront. The answers below address the questions most people search for but rarely find explained clearly.

• 1
  How much does a new roof cost in the United States? Average full replacement: $9,000–$18,000 for a standard home · Asphalt shingles: $4.50–$9 per sq. ft. installed · Metal roofing: $12–$19 per sq. ft. installed · Tile and slate: $10–$30+ per sq. ft. · Labor makes up roughly 50–60% of the total

  For a typical 1,500–2,500 sq. ft. American home, a full asphalt shingle roof replacement runs between $9,000 and $18,000 with most homeowners landing somewhere in the middle of that range for standard architectural shingles. The enormous spread in quotes — you’ll sometimes see estimates from $6,000 to $22,000 for the same house — comes from real differences in shingle grade, whether the old roof needs to be torn off and disposed of (a $1–$5 per sq. ft. add-on), and whether there is any damaged decking underneath that needs replacing before new shingles go down. Metal roofing costs meaningfully more upfront — currently $12–$19 per sq. ft. installed — but lasts 40–70 years compared to 20–30 for asphalt, which makes the lifetime math much closer than the sticker price suggests. The important thing to know when comparing quotes: make sure every estimate covers the same scope — tear-off, underlayment, new flashing around chimneys and vents, and the specific shingle brand and model. Two bids can look very different simply because one contractor is leaving things out.
• 2
  How much does it cost to fix a leaking roof? Minor leak repair: $400–$1,000 · Moderate repair (flashing, small section of shingles): $1,000–$3,500 · Major repair or partial replacement: $3,500–$8,000 · Full replacement often makes more economic sense for roofs older than 15–20 years

  The repair-vs-replace decision is one of the most important — and most misunderstood — conversations homeowners have with roofers. A small leak coming from damaged flashing around a chimney or vent is typically a $400–$900 repair. Missing or cracked shingles over a limited area run $500–$1,500 depending on accessibility and shingle matching. The tipping point most experienced contractors and the National Roofing Contractors Association point to: if your roof is 15–20 years old and has a leak, repairs may not be worth it. A patched older roof often develops another leak nearby within a few years because the surrounding shingles are at end of life. Paying $1,500 today plus another $1,500 in 18 months puts you $3,000 into a roof you still have to replace. If your roof is past the 15-year mark, ask every contractor you call to give you both a repair quote and a full replacement quote — then make the decision with both numbers in front of you, not just the cheaper-looking one.
• 3
  What is the cheapest time of year to get a new roof? Late fall and winter: lowest demand, most contractor availability, most flexibility to negotiate price · Fall is best quality + moderate pricing · Spring and summer are the most expensive and most booked · Plan 6–8 weeks ahead if scheduling for fall

  Roofing demand peaks in late spring through summer — when the weather is good and homeowners are ready to act. That is also when prices are highest and contractors are hardest to schedule. The sweet spot that experienced homeowners and roofing professionals consistently point to is late fall — September through November in most of the country — when contractors are finishing their summer backlog, weather is still cooperative for good installation, and schedules start opening up. Shingles also need time above 40°F to seal properly, which makes fall preferable to deep winter in most climates. If you’re primarily focused on price and your situation is not urgent, scheduling for January or February in warmer southern states or late February in the Midwest and Northeast can yield meaningful discounts — contractors actively price competitively during slow season to keep crews working. The caveat: winter installation in cold climates carries some installation risk, so only use this strategy with a highly experienced local contractor who has done it before.
• 4
  What are the warning signs my roof needs to be replaced soon? Age over 20 years · Curling, cracking, or missing shingles · Granules collecting in your gutters · Sagging sections · Daylight visible in the attic · Multiple leaks in different areas · Neighbors with same-age homes already replacing theirs

  The granule problem is one of the least obvious but most telling: if you clean your gutters and find what looks like coarse dark sand or gravel, those are granules shedding off your asphalt shingles. They protect the shingles from UV damage, and when they go, the shingles degrade rapidly. Curling at the corners or edges of shingles — particularly visible from the ground on a bright day — is another sign that shingles have contracted and expanded through too many freeze-thaw cycles. Sagging, which looks like a gentle bow or depression in a section of the roof, can mean the decking underneath has rotted or the structural supports below have been compromised by long-term moisture — which is a more serious issue than the shingles themselves. One often-overlooked indicator: walk around your neighborhood and notice whether neighbors whose homes were built around the same time as yours are getting new roofs. Roofing materials in a neighborhood tend to reach the end of their useful life around the same time. If three nearby houses have had work done, yours may be next.
• 5
  Who is the best roofing company — is there a #1 roofer in the US? There is no single national #1 — roofing quality is entirely local · The best roofer near you is one who is licensed in your state, carries current liability and workers’ comp insurance, has verifiable local reviews, and has been in business in your area for several years

  Large national roofing brands operate in some markets, but the majority of quality roofing work in the U.S. is done by regional or local contractors. A company with 500 five-star Google reviews in your city, a real local address, an active license on file with your state’s contractor board, and references from neighbors you can actually call is worth more than any national brand recognition. The contractor certification programs worth knowing: GAF Master Elite, CertainTeed SELECT ShingleMaster, and Owens Corning Preferred Contractor. These designations mean the roofer has been vetted and trained by the manufacturer and can often offer longer warranty terms (sometimes 50 years on materials and labor combined) than non-certified contractors can. Ask any contractor you’re considering: “What manufacturer certification do you hold, and what warranty does it allow you to offer?” A certified contractor installing the same shingles may be able to offer a warranty that’s two to three times as long as a non-certified one — for the same product.
• 6
  Do I need a permit to replace my roof? In most U.S. jurisdictions: yes — a permit is required for a full roof replacement · Cost: $100–$500 depending on the municipality · Your contractor should pull the permit, not you · If a contractor asks you to pull the permit yourself, that is a major red flag

  Most counties and cities require a building permit for a full roof replacement. The permit ensures a licensed inspector verifies the work after completion, which protects you — it’s the only way to know the job was done to code. A legitimate, licensed contractor handles all permit paperwork as part of their job. If a roofing company tells you the job doesn’t need a permit, or worse, asks you to pull the permit yourself, both are significant warning signs. Contractors who ask homeowners to pull their own permits often do so because they lack the required license, have had license issues, or have prior problems at the permit office. Roof work done without a required permit can create serious complications when you sell the home — buyers’ home inspectors flag unpermitted roof replacements, and you may be required to have the work inspected retroactively or redone. Always ask your contractor: “Will you pull the permit?” and verify the permit number exists by checking your county’s online building permit database before they start work.
• 7
  How do I know if a roofer is legitimate and not a scam? Check their state contractor license (every state has a free online lookup) · Verify current liability and workers’ comp insurance certificates · Confirm a real local address — not a P.O. box · Look for 50+ verified Google reviews from local customers · Never pay more than 10–30% upfront

  The most dangerous scenario happens right after a storm. Crews with out-of-state plates knock on doors, offer free inspections, quote aggressively low prices, collect a deposit, and either disappear or do minimal work before leaving town. The National Insurance Crime Bureau estimates storm-chasing roofing fraud accounts for over a billion dollars in annual losses. The verification steps take less than 20 minutes and protect you completely. First: every state with contractor licensing has a public database where you enter the company name or license number and see whether it’s current, what insurance is on file, and whether any complaints or disciplinary actions exist. Second: ask the contractor to provide a current certificate of insurance directly from their insurer — not a photocopy — showing both general liability and workers’ compensation. An uninsured worker injured on your roof can become your liability. Third: the deposit amount is one of the clearest signals. Legitimate contractors typically ask for 10–30% to start, with the balance due in stages or at completion. Any contractor asking for 50% or more upfront, or demanding cash, should be walked away from immediately.
• 8
  Will my homeowner’s insurance cover a new roof? Storm damage from hail or wind: usually covered, minus your deductible · Normal wear and aging: not covered · Many insurers are shifting older roofs from replacement cost value to actual cash value — meaning they pay depreciated value, not what a new roof costs

  Whether insurance covers your roof depends almost entirely on the cause of damage. A roof destroyed or damaged by a named storm event, a hailstorm, or wind is typically covered under standard homeowner’s policies, minus your deductible — which is often 1–2% of the home’s insured value (on a $300,000 home, that’s $3,000–$6,000 out of pocket). A roof that’s simply worn out, has old cracked shingles from age and sun exposure, or has been leaking from deteriorating flashing is considered deferred maintenance and is not covered. The shift to watch: many insurers are now writing policies that pay actual cash value (ACV) on roofs over a certain age rather than replacement cost value (RCV). ACV means they pay what the roof is worth today with depreciation factored in — which on a 15-year-old roof might be 40% of replacement cost. Always call your insurance company before any contractor starts work, and before signing any contractor’s paperwork. Let your insurer’s adjuster inspect the damage and issue their estimate first. Do not sign any document that gives a contractor the right to negotiate directly with your insurance company on your behalf — this is called an Assignment of Benefits (AOB), and it is illegal in several states for good reason.

All prices shown are installed costs — materials plus labor plus tear-off — based on national averages for a standard residential roof. Local markets, roof complexity, and pitch will affect your actual quote.